Kilkee, Co. ClareBishop's Rock. That blunt, detached sea stack sitting out there on its own, taking everything the Atlantic sends at it. I'd been putting Kilkee off for months, maybe longer, concentrating on the bigger cliff systems further north. Moher, Croaghaun. That was a mistake. The cliffs south of the town aren't especially high. They don't shout. But from altitude you realise they just go on forever, layer after layer of fractured rock shelving into the ocean,